Saturday, 5 May 2012

Odyssey and Sikati Cave

         The trek to Odyssey was quite a bit longer then the trek to Grande Grotta. Especially when I lead us the wrong way. Well really I lead us a more direct route, but that involved going straight up the steep hill leading to the cliff line, instead of taking the nice zig zagging trail laid out. Either way we arrived, huffing and puffing as usual. We’ll all be in such good shape by the end of the month.
            The first two climbs we did were Haryvdi (6a+) and Mikrotera Kalamarakia (6b+) and they compared nothing to the ones we did the other day at Grande Grotta and Panorama. They were routes on rock grayish in color. A type of rock that you never feel secure on; never had good feet on and is glossy. It is one of the most high traffic crags on the island. Joe and I moved onto a 12m jug hull route up a steep cave roof called Fouska (7b). It is located by the infamous route Gaia (8b). Once again the holds were glossy. After we had finished and before Jess got on, Erica (Joe’s evil sister) and her boyfriend Ollie met us. They came to visit from England until Monday and thank god they brought a car. While Jess was getting on Fouska, I took Erica and Ollie to route called Morfeas, a steep 6b+ short tufa climb. Might as well make your first climb in Kalymnos on a tufa. I good real sore and tired after this climb and spent the rest of the day talking with other climbers, reading in the sun and taking photos.
            Joe got on his first 8a and Jess started projecting a 7b+ (Sardonique and Inti Raymi) neither of them sent the route, but I know Jess is itching to get back on, and will send in a couple goes, while Joe didn’t like the 8a. Probably because of the large run out to the anchors. The crux was also super glossy and required the best of conditions to do. After discussion beta with a German climber, Joe described his way and the German responded “not possible”. We laughed. To end the day there Joe and Jess got on another super steep route called Lucky Luca (7b). Joe onsighted no problem, and Jess put up one hell of a right for the send! It was awesome to watch. If you continue the route pass the anchors it turns into an 8c, which was FA’d by Chris Sharma who skipped the crux with a dino!
Jess taking the swing after cleaning Lucky Luca!
         We spent the night cooking dinner, a game of Catan and relaxing. Joe and i walked to the grocery store later in the night and a stray cat started hissing at him. I protected him by hissing back and the cat ran away...haven't seen it since. Joe says he would have ran if i wasn't there. none of us doubt that. 
           The next day, we woke up early and took advantage of Erica’s car and drove to one of the further crags called Sikati Cave. The drive there was intense and I didn’t not think our little car would make it up the mountainous roads, as they were filled with goats and loose rock. Jess stuck his head out the window and yelled at the goats…..they moved. No one messes with Jess. We finally reached the parking and began the long hike in which took about 40mins. The book says 20mins! Maybe if you ran!
Trek into Sikati Cave
After the beautiful scenic walk in we reached the cave, but you still had to descend down into it. It was one of the sketchiest down climbs into a crag I have ever done, even more so then crag X. But once again totally worth it.
Joe telling a fish story or something (no one was really listening) Sikati cave in the back
            We started off on two climbs, on sighted by Jess and Joe, El Choco Loco (6b+) and El Chupodromo (6c+). The friction and texture of this rock was incredible. Literally everything you touched could be used as a hold in some form or another. After an incredible fight I almost flashed my first 6c+! Jess was up top taking photos and because he was turned around told me to bump my left hand when really it was my right. Bummer, but fate got him back when he tried on sighting Les pirates de Sikati, missing some key holds on the crux
Me on my flash attempt of El Chupodromo
  He ended up getting the redpoint…once again almost slipping at the very top! Lucky guy. Joe along with flashing Les Pirates de Sikati, he also on sighted the infamous tufa roof climb Morgan (7c) and a beautiful climb called Mort aux Chevres (7b) he had an amazing day! After climbing we went and cooled off on our very own private beach!
Joe and I fighting :) i won

Our private beach from above

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