Saturday, 26 May 2012

Irox & Pescatore

The following day we decided to check out a couple crags named Pescatore and Irox, on the island Talendos. This required a ferry which we got on at 8am, costing 5 Euros each to drop us off right at the base of the cliff. The Scottish couple happened to have the same plans so we were able to climb with them all day. We started climbing at Pescatore which was in the shade until 2pm then moved over to Irox. I started the warm up which I absolutely butchered, the sun was in my eyes so I ended up zig-zaging through two different routes, and by the time I got to the top, the rope drag was so much I could barely stand up and clip the anchors. When I was lowered I was still able to see the line and surprised I only went wrong in one section, anyways I was able to fix it for the other two, then it was off to the other side of the crag where the harder climbs were. Joe and Jess started on a 7b with a really hard bouldery start, while I was with the Scotts doing a really cool 7a+ which went in and out of tufas. I didn’t get this first try but was close enough that I gave it one more go and sent it! Such a good feeling.
            There was a classic 7c+ called Amores Perros at this crag, which Joe really wanted to flash, so he called up our strong Scottish friend Ross, and got him to jump on it first to hang draws and figure out beta. Actually Ross was getting on it regardless, Joe just paid attention and when it came time he did what needed to be done. His first 7c+ flash. Jess jumped on a 7c? right beside which had a super hard boulder problem at the beginning which he could not get past. Joe had to come to the rescue and retrieve the draws, although he did not send and said it was harder then the 7c+ he had just done. The sun was starting to makes its way the cliffs edge so we packed our stuff and headed back towards Irox.
            This late in the day, Irox was packed with climbers and even had a little day care center set up under a cave roof where all the wives and babies hung out. All the classic climbs had lines, I figured this out when I brought my rope up to two climbs, and climbers swarmed me saying that they were in line and what was I doing, I had to wait. Yada yada yada yada. I was confused and just said okay and left. One of the couples that was in line for the 7a, decided it was too busy and were going to another crag. They were nice enough to come get me and tell me I can jump on the route. This route was snaking left and right of the bolt line and was really hard to read. I made it to the 3 bolt at my chest but failed to find a good enough hold to clip from, then suddenly one of the crimps I was holding in my left hand exploded and I fell. It happened so fast and before I knew it I was standing on the ground and Joe was up in the air. Weird. Oh well, I gave it a second shot and made it to the top. It had an amazing roof section at the top. Jess on sighted and Joe flashed this route after me.
            Joe after jumped on another 7c+ making it to the top but the crux was a bit wet so he never did get back on it. It was a different style then the last, a bouldery overhanging crux. While Jess was climbing the 7a (which was more like a 7a+, we all agreed) Sam, the Scottish girl, had a bad fall on lead, when her feet hit a section of slab, flipping her upside down, smashing her back into the rock. She was lowered and luckily did not hit her head. A couple scraps and bruises later, that was the end of their day. The ferry was coming back soon and they wanted to catch but their draws were still up on the wall. We told them that we would retrieve them and meet them out for pizza later. They were thankful and ran to pack their things and catch the ferry.
            I retrieved the draws, and that was the end of our climbing. There was another ferry coming and we were all too pooped to do anymore climbing. We pack our things and caught the next ferry, playing a game of catan on the way back to port.
            We relaxed a bit at home, when the Ross and Sam strolled by, so we invited them over for a drink. One of the shop owners beside us saw us drink and because he likes us so much, gave us a 1.5litre of white wine and a can of muscles. We accepted with a smile but still haven’t opened either. After a few drinks and laughs we head out to the best pizza my mouth has ever had the pleasure of tasting at the Gecko. We got 3 pizzas (2 country and 1 Kalymnos) to split between the 5 of us and a round of Sambrinos. It was delicious. At the end of the night we went our separate ways and all passed out in our beds. Thank the lord it was a rest day the next morning.
            Dave and Yudai showed up early the next morning. We got together and showed them around, pointing out the best spots to eat, buy groceries, and get clean water. They were eager to go and check out the climbing so after a quick tour they headed up to Iannis. We went and did some snorkeling in a new area. It was the same, besides seeing a jellyfish and doing some bouldering on the ocean floor. After 30 minutes the water was too cold to stay in any longer. The rest of the day was spent relaxing, sleeping or gaming.

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